By Stella Diomantaraki
The first restaurant Recommendation:
I’ve been working as
a sommelier for over 20 years and I’ve been a food lover all my life. In fact, I married a chef! In a city like
Hania, where the gastronomic community
is both vibrant and close-knit, chances are we’ve already crossed paths. With the launch of this new
English-language newspaper, I’m excited to share my perspective on the local food and wine scene,
offering insider recommendations from across the city and the island.
For me, great food always begins with exceptional ingredients, and sustainability plays an increasingly important role. Wine is not simply an accompaniment, but an essential part of gastronomic culture. And while service doesn’t need to be rigid or overly formal, it should always be attentive and thoughtful.
With all this in mind, I’ll be sharing my favourite food spots, wines, and everything that triggers my palate and expands my taste memory.
One of the first places I would recommend is Matzenta Cucina del Sol.
Chef Patron Dimitris Malandrenis is a visionary, bringing together the culinary traditions of Crete and Oaxaca in a way that feels both natural and exciting. Alongside him, Grigoris Marinakis – his long-time collaborator and creative partner – brings a thoughtful, inventive approach that constantly pushes boundaries.
The concept goes beyond fusion; it’s a dialogue between two rich food cultures. Together, they travel to Mexico every year, exploring new recipes and techniques that continue to evolve their cuisine.
The kitchen focuses on zero-mile ingredients, applying Mexican techniques to exceptional Cretan produce. The menu follows seasonality, ensuring there is always something new to discover. Close your eyes, and you can almost taste Mexico – reimagined through a distinctly Cretan lens – served in a space that reflects the warmth and character of both worlds, tucked away in a quieter suburban corner of the city.
Every dish feels like a small celebration, each bite layered with flavour and intention. A must-try is “the shrimp ceviche with leche de león”, ideally paired with a pisco sour.
Be sure to reserve in advance – this is a place with a loyal followers and tables fill up quickly.
Elirou & Polirrinias 27, Hania Town, Crete 731 36 Greece
And now, let’s talk about wine…
Wine making is one of the most ancient crafts on the island of Crete. During the Venetian occupation, wine was not merely a product, it functioned as a form of currency. Historical records show that transactions, including rent payments, were often made in grapes or wine, highlighting its central role in both the economy and everyday life.
Bringing this legacy into the present, one winery that stands out is Thalassinos Winery, located near Heraklion, in the area of Foinikia.
Isidoros Thalassinos comes from a long line of farmers and vignerons and is a worthy successor to his family’s winemaking heritage. Some of the oldest vineyards in his care -particularly Liatiko vines in Lasithi- are over 200 years old, passed down from generation to generation.
During his studies in France, he began to question conventional winemaking methods after experiencing allergic reactions while working in several wineries. Interestingly, he had never encountered such issues with the wines produced by his own family in Crete. This led him to explore and eventually immerse himself in natural winemaking.
His ecological awareness is reflected in every aspect of his work. He has moved away from oak barrels, favouring amphorae and glass vessels instead, choices that preserve purity and expressiveness.
A visit to the winery reveals a vibrant, energetic environment. Different spaces host a range of experimental wines, each reflecting Isidoros’ restless and inquisitive spirit.
Virginia, his partner, is a warm and generous host, with an in-depth knowledge of their wines, which she presents with care and enthusiasm. She also offers exceptional rusks made from their own wheat, something increasingly rare, as they are among the few remaining producers on the island who still cultivate it.
There is also a small vegetable garden, along with aromatic herbs and plants that bring life to every corner of the estate. Well-cared-for animals occasionally make an appearance, adding to the sense of authenticity and connection to the land.
My personal favourite is Tyto Alba, an orange wine made from the Spina Muscat grape. It is crafted from two harvests: one early, to preserve acidity, and one later, using grapes that, if they do not reach the desired sugar levels, are treated through an appassimento-style process. The wine is fermented and aged in amphorae, enhancing its texture and allowing for a pure expression of the fruit and terroir.
The result is a wine that expresses the full spectrum of Cretan terroir, from spring to late summer and early autumn. It is layered with citrus aromas in all their forms, from fresh notes of citrus leaf to more developed tones of honeysuckle, underscored by a subtle herbal character.
From the vineyards & farms to every table, Crete tells its story through flavor, and this is only the beginning. I hope that, together, we’ll sip and taste the essence of the Cretan land. To be continued…
If you’re in Hania, you can find their wines at Red Jane’s Wine Project
and Mr Vertigo.
